Machine-embroidered garment



A.STERN. MACHINE EMBROIDERED GARMENT- APPLICATION FILED FEB. 27, 1920. I1,362,272. Patented Dec. 14,1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

ATTORNEY A. STERN.

MACHINE EMBROIDERED GARMENT.

, APPLICATION FILED FEE-27, I920. V 1 362 272. Patented Dec. 14, 1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

ATTORNEY lllllilllllll'l 'illlli PATENT OFFICE.

ARNOLD STERN, OF JAMAICA HEIGHTS, NEW YORK.

MACHINE-EMBROIDERED GARIVIEN '1.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 14, 1920.

Application filed February 27, 1920. Serial No. 361,812.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I ARNOLD STERN, a citizen of the United tates, andresident of Jamaica Heights, in the county of Queens and State of NewYork, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMachine-Embroidered Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to embroidered garments, and my improvement isdirected particularly to a new method of producing such articles bymachine applied embroidery.

The main object of my invention is to so economize in the timeoccupied'in perform ing the embroidery operation as to effect asubstantial saving in the expense involved in the production of anembroidered gar ment, and a further object is to limit the employment ofembroidery threads, in so far as the garment production is concerned, tothose portions of the material which are to define the garment outlinesor boundaries, such for example as the sleeve edgings and the neckedgings, the subsequent shaping and seam stitching necessary in makingup a garment formingno part of this invention.

Still further, my invention comprehends the use of embroidery machinessuch as are known in the trade as shuttle machines, wherein ahorizontally arranged needle bar, carrying a plurality of needles, eachwitha separate thread, moves said needles simultaneously to'and from thework material, and wherein the work material is carried by a frame thatis movable in a vertical plane in front of the needles, being controlledthrough a'pantograph that is operable by a workman while passing astylusover a pat tern, to thus permit the needles, with associatedshuttle mechanism, to reproduce such pattern in embroidery upon thematerial.

On account of the large size of the shuttle machine, as it is called,the fabric frame thereof, whlch comprises a spanned pair of horizontalrollers, may present an extensive area of fabric to the needles, whichare thus enabled, in a certain arbitrarily set and spaced arrangement ofsaid needles in the needle bar, to execute embroidery repeats; and, forthe purpose of my invention, these repeats are caused to occur in suchpositions upon the work material as to enablethe latter to besubsequently divided up into a number of garments by using theembroideryas individual garment outlines, the embroldery also beingutilized as ornamental boundaries of these outlines.

The garment material while in the machine is embroidered in repeats ofvertical scallops or edges, two needles suitably spaced for each garmentto be produced, executing slmultaneously the same repeat from thepattern, to thus embroider the opposite sleeve edgmgs for a garment, andcorresponding pairs of needles on the same bar also executing the samerepeat for opposite sleeve edgmgs of other garments upon the same pleceof dress material at the same time.

In another operation the neck circle is executed in a similar manner bya single needle for each garment, and simultaneously a number ofneedles, suitably spaced apart along the needle bar execute the samerepeat to produce neck embroidery edgings along the width of the portionof garment material presented to their operation in the machine.

The portion of material which is inclosed within or bounded by theseneck edgings is subsequently removed, it being cut away in eachinstance, using the embroidery as an outline, thus providing the neckopening in the garment structure.

Upon removal of the material from the machine the individual garmentportions thereof are separated vertically along the lines of the sleeveedgings, and then, in the further process of garment manufacture, eachseparated piece of material is folded lengthwise, the fold occurring ina transverse line centrally of the neck repeat and sleeve edgingrepeats, so that the garment in process of formation may be shaped atthe sides and there sewn with its opposite vertical side seams and itsopposite, under side sleeve seams.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a portion of an embroidery machine,with the needle bar removed, showing the garment material in its movableframe, and the pantograph system whereby said frame is manipulatedduring the embroiderin g operation.

Fig. 2 is a horizontal sectional view taken through the garment materialin its frame and also showing the needle bar with needles set thereinfor producing one portion embroidery repeat upon the material.

Fig. 3 is a similar view to Figo 12, but

In carrying out my invention I employ an embroidering machine of the.kind known as a shuttle machine, of which such parts as are to bereferred to herein are illustrated.

Thus the machine frameis indicated at 1., in which is mounted a needlebar 2, said bar serving as a holder for needles 3, 3, that are disposedhorizontally in order that they mayv attack the work material in theusual horizontal reciprocatory movement of the bar.

The .work material to be embroideredconsists of a strip of fabric, as 4,spanned vertically between two parallel rollers or bars, as 5, 5, which,as forming part of a frame to support said work material., is movable ina vertical plane by means of an engaging pantograph, as 6, the operatingmeans for said pantograph being a stylus 7 that is grasped andmanipulated by the workman, in tracing over a relatively large pattern,(not shown), so that the movement reduction, for which the pantograph isresponsible, will permit a needle to execute in embroidery upon the workmaterial a design representing a desired number of quarter repeatswithin the radius of action in the vertical plane through which theframe supporting the Work material is movable.

I In Fig. l the work'material 4 shows, at 8, a circle of embroiderywhich is repeated in a horizontal line or zone ,on said material, saidrepeats having been produced by the simultaneous operation of theneedles 3, which have been set, singly, at predetermined intervals, allalong the length of the machine; although, in the broken away views ofthe machine illustrated, some only of said needles are shown.

"The circles 8 each represent the outline of a neck opening for agarment to be formed, and said circles are spaced a sufiicient distanceapart sothat uponsevering the ma- 'rial as at the dotted lines 9, eachcircle will occupy an intermediate central position upon an individualsevered unit of material.

, lVhile the machine is operating with' the needles 3 i'n'their statedset positions for producing the neck repeats aforesaid, all

other needles in the needle bar are with drawmto be thus inoperative.

Either before, or after-the operation of the machine with the needles 3in set position. other embroidery repeats are applied to the samegarment material, for the production of the lines of embroidery edgingsuch as are-indicated at 10 on Figs. 1 andd,

these} lines of embroidery constituting the respective side boundaryoutlines of the garment at the sleeve portions thereof, and beinglocated respectively equal distances apart from a neck circle repeat, atopposite sides thereof.

F or the production of these embroidery repeats 10 the needles 3 are setin the appropriate positions indicated in Fig. 3, and at this time theneedles 3 are withdrawn, to be out of service.

It will be noted that the needles 3 are. arranged in pairs whereof eachpair is spaced to apply repeats upon the material for the opposite sideboundary outlines thereofleach successive pair of said needles servingthe same purpose in the production of succeeding garments, but all ofsaid needles 3 operating simultaneously in thus applying the repeats. 7

It will also be noted that the conformations of all of the repeats 10are alike, this being a function of the several needles 3? working atthe same time.

While, for a scallop design such as that shown at 10, the curves of thesleeve edging repeats at opposite sides of a garment are thus inrelative parallelism or symmetry, and customarily they would be inasymmetry in conventional practice, the difference in effect is actuallyinappreciable and is equally pleasing. Moreover, this feature inparticular constitutes an improvement over Louis Tuttmans earlierapplication, Serial No. 264,032, filed November 25, 1918, whereinasymmetrical boundary outline repeats were applied to the opposite sidesof a garment by the use of two sets of needles operating at differenttimes.

' One of these sets of needles produced in one operation symmetricalrepeats nearly centrally through each of the neck and sleeve repeatcircles in the material on the machine, and then, in a subsequentoperation, another set of needles, or a re-setting of the same needleswas used to form a second series of repeats, also nearly cen trallythrough eachof theneck and sleeve circles, the repeats of said secondseries being symmetrical with each other but asymmetrical with therepeats of the first series.

In the present application method asaving is; eflected in that oneoperationonly is needed to produce all of the sleeve edging repeats, aswill be obvious from the 'foregoing explanation, this saving being socon: siderable that by my new method the sleeve edging repeats areapplied to the garment material in one half the time occupied by theformermethod, because one embroidering operation onlyis now necessary,where formerly two separate operations had to be performed.

. The repeatslO each have an equal length i formed by severing thegarment portions of the material, when embroidered, at about the dottedlines 9, then in trimming about the repeat 10 outlines, also the neckrepeat 8 outlines, shaping each garment, and

finally in folding the garment material lengthwise, transversely of therepeats, preparatory to seaming up the garment sides.

I claim 1. The method of performing machine embroidery for garmentproduction, which consists in setting two needles in the needle bar of ashuttle machine, in spaced relation, and in position for simultaneouslyembroidering respectively at separated locations upon a work piece, todefine the opposite side boundaries of a garment, and in moving the workpiece for the embroidering thereon of the vsame repeat by each needle.

2. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production,which consists in setting a needle in the needle bar of a shuttlemachine for embroidering a neck outline and moving the work piece whileembroidering thereon said neck outline, and, for a separate operation,in setting two needles in said needle bar, in spaced relation, and inposition for simultaneously embroidering respectively at separatedlocations upon the work piece, to define the opposite side boundaries ofthe garment, and in moving the work piece for the embroidering thereonof the same repeat by each needle.

8. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production,which consists in setting a number of pairs of needles in the needle barof a shuttle machine, the needles of each pair being spaced equaldistances apart, and said pairs of needles also being spaced equaldistances apart, for simultaneously embroidering respectively in seriesof locations upon a work piece to define the opposite side boundariesfor a plurality of garments, and in moving the work piece for theembroidering thereon of the same repeat by all the needles.

4:. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment productionwhich consists in setting a number of needles equal spaces apart in theneedle bar of a shuttle machine for simultaneously embroidering each aseparate neck outline on a work piece, and moving the work piece whileembroidering thereon said neck outlines; and, for a separate operation,in setting a number of pairs of needles in. said needle bar, the needlesof each pair having equal spaced relation, and the pairs of needles alsohaving equal spaced relation, for simultaneously embroidering by allsaid pairs of needles respectively at separated locations upon the workpiece, to define the side boundaries of a plurality of garments, and inmoving the work piece for the embroidering thereon of the same repeat byeach needle.

5. The new article of manufacture which consists of garment materialbearing ma chine embroidered designs spaced apart thereon, said designsincluding a neck outline and sleeve outline repeats, the latterpositioned equal distances at each side of said neck outline, and all ofsaid designs serving respectively as ornamental boundaries of thoseoutlines.

Signed at Jamaica, in the county of Queens and State of New York, this21st day of February, A. D. 1920.

ARNOLD STERN.

